Toscane d'Auvergne, Billom
©Toscane d'Auvergne, Billom|Benjamin Vallet

Billom, Lezoux, land of crops and ceramics

Billom and Lezoux are just a stone’s throw from Clermont-Ferrand, and both are worth a visit. Billom boasts an important rich medieval heritage, but it is also the capital of pink garlic. Lezoux boasts an important ceramics industry that stretches back to the Gallo-Roman era, when its creations were skilled and technologically advanced for the times, as you can learn at Lezoux’s museum of ceramic arts.

Billom, medieval Auvergne market town and capital of pink garlic

Billom, histoire d’aulx
Billom, histoire d’aulx
Billom, histoire d’aulx

Even in the 19th century, Billom was dubbed “the town of markets”, as you could buy and sell anything there: from butter, eggs, cheeses, and every kind of livestock and poultry imaginable, to wood, clogs, grape harvest barrels, earthenware pots, hemp, wool yarn, and much much more. It was at that same time that hemp farming gradually gave way to pink garlic.

The Limagne plainland proved to be perfect for growing garlic, which thrived in the continental climate and local clay-limestone soil that produce the unique taste profile of Billom garlic. Billom garnered widespread recognition as a bastion of garlic farming, and it went beyond growing and cropping garlic to exploring and refining ways to preserve and package it.

The short jump from garlic fields to processors confers superior freshness and quality of a garlic that grows without artificial preservatives. This magical combination of conditions that enabled Billom to rise up as the capital of pink garlic, a title the town proudly holds to this day.

Discover the pink garlic of Billom

Summertime is when you should be buying your pink garlic straight from the producer. Sébastien Bourletias is the latest of 4 generations of pink garlic producers, and he sells direct from his farm at Espirat. In August, he also gives demonstrations (by appointment only) of how to braid bulbs of pink garlic.

Love pink garlic from Billom? Then you won’t want to miss the big Billom garlic festival, held in the centre of town on the second weekend of August every year. It is an unmissable event for pink garlic aficionados and producers alike, with 200 exhibitors and 60 markets traders attracting nearly 20,000 visitors every year.

Garlic soup the recipe

1List of ingredients
  • Makes 2 litres of soup. 2 heads of Billom pink garlic
  • milk, ½ litre 
  • water, ½ litre
  • bone marrow, 2 bones
  • 3 or 4 potatoes
  • olive oil, bay leaves, salt and pepper
2Prepare the garlic paste
  • Step 1:
    Break the heads of garlic into cloves. Bring the Place the whole garlic cloves in in the ½ L milk and ½ L water, and bring to the boil. Let it simmer gently for 10 minutes, then drain off the water and pinch the cloves between your fingertips to squeeze them from their skins.

  • Step 2:
    Gently let the soft paste of Billom pink garlic brown in some olive oil, being careful not to burn it. /p>

  • Step 3:
    Make 2 litres of silky fatty stock with the two marrow bones and two bay leaves. Cook 3 or 4 potatoes until they are ready to be mashed. Pour the nice fatty stock onto to the garlic mixture, add the mashed potatoes, stir together, then put back on the heat to simmer for a few minutes. Serve with garlic croutons.

  • Step 4:
    Slurp down with a nice bottle of local Côtes d’Auvergne wine.

Lezoux, a history of ceramics

Lezoux, céramique et sigillée
Lezoux, céramique et sigillée
Lezoux, céramique et sigillée

Lezoux has a (hi)story that stretches even further back in time.
The story of pottery in Lezoux dates back to the Gaulish-era, i.e. around the 1st century B.C., although archaeologists have so far found only one potters’ kiln dating to this period.
The arrival of the Romans marked a decisive turning point, making Lezoux a hotbed of industrial-scale pottery making, from tableware and cookware to terracotta forms used for buildings or as votive offerings for divinities.

One of the defining these creations was terra sigillata pottery, with its characteristic red–orange hue and relief decoration. These terra sigillata pieces, decorated with mythological scenes or floral designs, bore makers’ stamps—and more than 1,200 potters’ names have been catalogued, which is testimony to the importance of creator signatures. Lezoux’s much-prized and relatively luxury sigillata exported to every corner of the entire Roman Empire, from Great Britain to Poland, thanks to a well-established distribution network. Lezoux’s museum of ceramic arts holds some unique pieces that date from this period.

However, in the 19th century, Lezoux and the surrounding area was teeming with small studios and itinerant craftsmen, thus perpetuating local pottery-making tradition.
In recognition of Lezoux’s importance as a historical bastion of ceramic arts, in 2007 the Puy-de-Dôme département opened a council-funded ceramicware museum. Housed in the long-iconic Bompard firing and glazing works, the museum tells the centuries-long (his)story of potterymaking craft and innovation here in the region.

Visit the Lezoux ceramicware museum

Step back in time, share in ancient secrets, and admire skilled and technologically advanced creations for the times, in a fabulously authentic setting!
The stunning ceramicware museum is set in a former faïence firing and glazing works, where it offers a 1300m² interpretation trail. You get to touch the pottery, as the museum features a thrillingly tactile trail and even an immersive work created by Nathalie Talec called “Le secret du monde” that you can not only see and touch but even smell.

You only have to see the children running between interpretation signs to understand that the tour programme is eminently family-friendly—and it even draws the adults in, happy to join the fun trying to identify pieces of a pottery puzzle or carefully trace the decorative lines of terra sigillata pottery.

So just what is terra sigillata pottery ?

Terra sigillata is fine pottery essentially used to produce tableware, characterised by a glossy red glaze and pieces of relief decoration moulded on, added or applied using slips. Some pieces carry the maker’s stamp, thus conferring the modern term sigillata, which borrows from the Latin for ‘seal’. If the finest examples of terra sigillata are found here, it is because between the 1st and 4th centuries A.D., Lezoux was the main centre of terra sigillata pottery production, exporting its ceramicware out across the entire Roman Empire.

Stuff to do around Lezoux and Billom

A stroll through the streets of Lezov

As you stroll through the streets of Lezoux, you’ll pass by the belfry, Saint-Georges chapel and numerous pigeon houses. And if you’d like to take to the skies, Lezoux’s accrobranche course awaits you. Two unforgettable ziplines will take you soaring over a body of water.

Potters’ market and craft fair at Bort-l’Étang May 25 & 26, 2024

Discover the art and craft of working with clay at the pottery studio in Bort-l’Étang. You could even try your hand at potterymaking.

Val d’Allier ‘Écopôle’

The Val d’Allier Écopôle, between Pérignat-ès-Allier and La Roche Noire in the Puy-de-Dôme département, is a fine example of a successful land stewardship and conversion project to accommodate human activities within natural habitat.

Accommodation and restaurants around Billom & Lezoux

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