Fourme d'Ambert, culinary tradition

A culinary tradition from Ambert: fourme cheese

This week, I continue my adventures with the composition of a cheese at the Maison de la Fourme in Ambert.

When I was told about Ambert, my first thought was, of course, of Fourme. Even though I have to admit that my little favorite is Saint-Nectaire, I leave it aside for an afternoon to discover Ambert’s specialties. In a little street in downtown Ambert, I find this little stone house, the Maison de la Fourme. Émeline Beraud guides me to the cheese-making workshop.

Once inside, I see a bowl full of milk on the table. So far, so good. For someone who doesn’t drink milk, my mouth isn’t yet watering. Émeline approaches a bottle filled with an orange liquid on the table. The only thing I know is that you need milk to make cheese. So that flux in the little plastic bottle doesn’t tell me a thing.

Rennet, you ask? Well done. You can probably recognize it by its pungent smell. It’s true that when I put my nose in that bottle, I quickly come to regret it. My stomach churns. Indeed, this unappetizing liquid actually comes from the calf’s fourth stomach, the abomasum. A family accompanies me for the animation, and each of us has more or less the same reaction. The liquid has to be poured into the milk, once the latter has reached room temperature. I then take my little ladle to pour in the rennet.

Just think of it as oil poured into a cake batter, and you’ll soon get used to the smell. For the next few minutes, we wait for the rennet to scale the milk. During these minutes, Émeline tells the story of Fourme. Its origins, its evolution and its differences from other cheeses. She also takes the opportunity to go round the table and ask us what our favorite cheeses are. Yes, I take the opportunity to mention again my little Saint-Nectaire, also from Auvergne, so I’m not going off the beaten track. Once the rennet has set in the milk, it’s ready to give us a faisselle, which we take turns pouring into a little jar. It’s a shame the workshop isn’t more comprehensive in terms of introductions.

Unfortunately, I didn’t get to taste this famous faisselle, which, with the heatwave, certainly makes the milk go sour. I might as well tell you that I didn’t want to take any chances… History will record that it must have been very good.

At the end of the workshop, everyone left with their own little faisselle.

Lagazettedethiers

 Lucile Brière for La Gazette de Thiers et d'Ambert

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